Perched on the easternmost edge of North America, St. John’s, Newfoundland, is a vibrant tapestry of maritime heritage, Indigenous traditions, and culinary delights. This coastal city offers a unique gastronomic experience, deeply rooted in its history and the bounties of the Atlantic Ocean.
From Sea to Plate: The Heartbeat of St. John’s, Newfoundland Cuisine
The lifeblood of Newfoundland’s culinary scene is its rich fishing heritage. For centuries, the cold, nutrient-rich waters surrounding the island have provided an abundance of seafood, shaping the local diet and economy.
Fish and Brewis
A quintessential Newfoundland dish, fish and brewis combines salt cod and hard tack (a hard bread). Both ingredients are soaked overnight, then boiled separately and served together, often topped with “scrunchions“—crispy fried pork fat.
This hearty meal reflects the resourcefulness of early settlers and remains a beloved comfort food.
Cod Tongues
Despite the name, cod tongues are actually the gelatinous muscle from the back of a cod’s neck. Lightly battered and fried, they offer a delicate flavor and are often served with scrunchions. This delicacy showcases the islanders’ commitment to utilizing every part of their catch.
Toutons In St. John’s
A breakfast favorite and an easy recipe to make, toutons are pieces of bread dough fried until golden brown and traditionally served with molasses or butter. Grab a tumbler of coffee to keep you warm on your day’s adventure.
Jiggs’ Dinner
A Sunday staple, Jiggs’ dinner consists of salt beef boiled with root vegetables like potatoes, carrots, and cabbage, often accompanied by pease pudding and figgy duff (a boiled raisin pudding). This meal reflects the Irish influence on Newfoundland’s culture and cuisine.
Where to Savor Authentic Newfoundland Flavors
St. John’s: Mallard Cottage
Located in the historic Quidi Vidi Village, Mallard Cottage offers a rustic yet refined dining experience. Set in a restored 18th-century cottage, the restaurant serves dishes that celebrate Newfoundland’s culinary heritage, using locally sourced ingredients.
Chinched Bistro
A haven for charcuterie enthusiasts, Chinched Bistro crafts house-made cured meats and inventive small plates. Their menu often features modern takes on traditional Newfoundland dishes, reflecting the island’s evolving food scene.
St. John’s Fish Exchange
Perched along the bustling waterfront, this restaurant offers a contemporary setting to enjoy fresh seafood. From classic fish and chips to lobster mac and cheese, the menu pays homage to Newfoundland’s maritime roots.
A St. John’s Icon: The Celtic Hearth
For a taste of traditional fare, The Celtic Hearth serves up hearty dishes like Jiggs’ dinner pie and toutons. Its cozy atmosphere and commitment to local flavors make it a favorite among both locals and visitors.
Embracing the Sea: Coastal Traditions and Experiences
St. John’s coastal location offers more than just seafood; it provides immersive experiences that connect visitors to the ocean’s rhythms. An easy-to-use audio walking tour is available for visitors.
Whale Watching and Iceberg Viewing
The waters off Newfoundland are a haven for marine life. Seasonal whale watching tours offer glimpses of humpbacks and orcas, while spring brings the mesmerizing sight of icebergs drifting south from Greenland.
St. John’s Quidi Vidi Brewing Company
Nestled in a picturesque fishing village, the Quidi Vidi Brewing Company crafts beers using 25,000-year-old iceberg water.
Their signature Iceberg Beer offers a crisp taste that’s uniquely Newfoundland.
Connecting with Indigenous Culture and Cuisine
Newfoundland’s rich Indigenous heritage adds depth to its cultural tapestry.
ShaMaSha Centre
Led by Mi’kmaq guide Daphne Marsh, the ShaMaSha Centre offers retreats that blend Indigenous practices with wellness activities. Participants can engage in traditional cooking, storytelling, and nature-based meditation, fostering a deeper connection to the land and its history.
Under The Stump
This experiential tour company provides insights into Indigenous traditions through storytelling and guided nature walks. Visitors can learn about traditional foraging, medicinal plants, and the cultural significance of the land.
Embracing Local Traditions: The Screech-In Ceremony
No visit to Newfoundland is complete without participating in a “screech-in.” This lighthearted ceremony involves taking a shot of Newfoundland Screech rum, reciting a traditional phrase, and kissing a codfish, symbolically welcoming newcomers as honorary Newfoundlanders.
St. John’s, Newfoundland, offers a culinary journey steeped in history, tradition, and the bounty of the sea. From savoring time-honored dishes to engaging with Indigenous culture and coastal experiences, visitors are sure to leave with a deeper appreciation for this unique corner of Canada.